1 00:00:14,840 --> 00:00:15,960 Cambodia. 2 00:00:16,800 --> 00:00:18,520 I don't know much about this country, 3 00:00:18,600 --> 00:00:22,280 but we've been warned it's going to be a lot tougher than Thailand. 4 00:00:22,920 --> 00:00:26,800 And if our new guide, Puppet, is anything to go by, 5 00:00:27,320 --> 00:00:28,840 I think it will be. 6 00:00:30,480 --> 00:00:34,920 Let's just say that Puppet isn't as sweet as his name might suggest. 7 00:00:35,000 --> 00:00:36,640 Certainly not one for small talk. 8 00:00:39,120 --> 00:00:40,840 Or any talk. 9 00:00:41,520 --> 00:00:42,840 We're waiting to catch a train 10 00:00:42,920 --> 00:00:45,760 to the old French colonial town of Battambang. 11 00:00:45,840 --> 00:00:48,080 And having been traveling for almost a day now, 12 00:00:48,160 --> 00:00:51,400 I can tell that my father is not in a good mood, 13 00:00:51,480 --> 00:00:53,400 and I fear it's about to get worse. 14 00:00:53,480 --> 00:00:55,240 What's that noise? 15 00:00:55,320 --> 00:00:57,680 That's the train. God! 16 00:00:57,760 --> 00:00:59,600 What is this? Wow. 17 00:00:59,680 --> 00:01:01,160 It's the bamboo train. 18 00:01:29,040 --> 00:01:30,600 Yeah. Oh, good. 19 00:01:07,360 --> 00:01:09,800 This isn't a train. It's a trolley. 20 00:01:09,880 --> 00:01:11,800 Why don't you put him with the other kids? 21 00:01:11,880 --> 00:01:13,200 I don't really see the logic 22 00:01:13,280 --> 00:01:16,600 of switching from a van with a roof and seats to this. 23 00:01:16,680 --> 00:01:18,760 But I am not going to argue with Puppet. 24 00:01:18,840 --> 00:01:21,080 Although my father looks tempted. 25 00:01:21,640 --> 00:01:22,920 How fast does it go Um... 26 00:01:25,320 --> 00:01:26,440 Not that fast. 27 00:01:27,320 --> 00:01:28,960 It goes quicker than this? 28 00:01:29,040 --> 00:01:30,600 Yeah. Oh, good. 29 00:01:34,440 --> 00:01:35,720 Wow. A bullet train. 30 00:01:44,920 --> 00:01:48,040 It's more like a roller coaster ride than a train. 31 00:01:48,120 --> 00:01:52,680 I think probably the Orient-Express, or whatever it was called, 32 00:01:52,760 --> 00:01:57,360 Just. I kind of love it, though. 33 00:01:58,040 --> 00:02:00,760 Yeah. It's got a very "you" feel about it. 34 00:02:03,440 --> 00:02:05,880 A lovely way to see the countryside, though. 35 00:02:05,960 --> 00:02:06,960 It is. 36 00:02:08,160 --> 00:02:09,919 Can I hold your chicken? 37 00:02:10,880 --> 00:02:14,720 What are you planning to do with that 38 00:02:14,800 --> 00:02:17,720 -Um... yes. 39 00:02:17,800 --> 00:02:21,160 -Definitely not. No. 40 00:02:25,080 --> 00:02:28,840 Another train coming this way. What? 41 00:02:28,920 --> 00:02:30,880 Another bamboo train is coming this way. 42 00:02:32,680 --> 00:02:33,680 What happens? 43 00:02:34,560 --> 00:02:37,160 Presumably, that one will go into a siding. 44 00:02:40,040 --> 00:02:42,200 We need to get off. What? 45 00:02:42,280 --> 00:02:43,880 -We need to get off. 46 00:02:43,960 --> 00:02:46,000 'Cause they have more people than us. We have to give way. 47 00:02:46,080 --> 00:02:49,600 -But we have the chicken. -We have a chicken. 48 00:02:49,680 --> 00:02:51,800 No, sorry. Chicken beats dog. 49 00:02:51,880 --> 00:02:54,120 The less people on the bamboo train, 50 00:02:54,200 --> 00:02:56,320 we have to give way to the people that have more. 51 00:02:56,400 --> 00:02:59,280 And it's not quality against quantity? 52 00:02:59,360 --> 00:03:01,080 So we have to give them way. 53 00:03:01,160 --> 00:03:03,480 Do these people not know who we are? 54 00:03:03,560 --> 00:03:05,440 Excuse me. Can someone take the cock back? 55 00:03:08,720 --> 00:03:14,160 Absolute fucking farce, this is. I tell you, heads will roll. 56 00:03:14,240 --> 00:03:16,880 They have more people. Stand here. 57 00:03:16,960 --> 00:03:19,160 They could easily get off and let us through. He has a dog and she has a chicken, to be fair. 58 00:03:21,520 --> 00:03:25,920 It's nearly lunchtime, too. I was told there was a restaurant car. 59 00:03:27,000 --> 00:03:30,480 Michael, you sit with the women and children. Men are at work. 60 00:03:30,560 --> 00:03:32,040 Boys, let's take this off. 61 00:03:32,600 --> 00:03:35,520 Turns out this could take a little longer than I thought. 62 00:03:35,600 --> 00:03:39,000 Apparently, you have to take the whole thing apart to lift it off. 63 00:03:39,080 --> 00:03:41,400 I'm amazed these trains ever caught on. 64 00:03:41,960 --> 00:03:43,040 Oh, it's hot. 65 00:03:45,440 --> 00:03:48,640 -I don't need any help. I had it. It's okay. 66 00:03:50,160 --> 00:03:51,720 Just there. 67 00:03:51,800 --> 00:03:54,320 Do you wanna come through? 68 00:03:55,920 --> 00:03:58,160 -See you later, bye-bye. Bye-bye! 69 00:04:02,200 --> 00:04:03,200 Bye. 70 00:04:04,200 --> 00:04:07,880 We definitely have more people. They mugged us off. 71 00:04:09,120 --> 00:04:10,320 Everyone back on? 72 00:04:11,240 --> 00:04:14,280 I don't want to sound like my dad, but if another train comes along, 73 00:04:14,360 --> 00:04:16,519 I think we just tell them to go fuck themselves. 74 00:04:39,120 --> 00:04:41,680 We finally arrived in Battambang. 75 00:04:42,640 --> 00:04:46,480 And I've never been more relieved to reach a destination in my life. 76 00:04:47,120 --> 00:04:51,360 After a pretty stressful 24 hours, it's a welcome change of pace. 77 00:04:53,520 --> 00:04:57,040 Home to quaint cafés and French colonial architecture, 78 00:04:57,120 --> 00:04:59,840 I'm hoping this should lift my father's mood. I'm just relieved to see that the Bambu Hotel 79 00:05:04,360 --> 00:05:07,080 has a different vibe to the bamboo train. 80 00:05:08,120 --> 00:05:12,000 However, there may be a slight fly in the ointment. 81 00:05:17,600 --> 00:05:18,960 I can't find Winston. 82 00:05:20,160 --> 00:05:22,000 I think I might have left him on the train. 83 00:05:24,840 --> 00:05:25,960 Oh, dear. 84 00:05:26,640 --> 00:05:28,400 There's something I want to tell you. 85 00:05:28,520 --> 00:05:29,520 Yeah? 86 00:05:29,600 --> 00:05:32,880 Promise me, before I tell you, that you won't overreact. 87 00:05:34,520 --> 00:05:37,680 -No. 88 00:05:37,760 --> 00:05:40,440 -No, sorry. Sorry, forget-- -Why did your-- 89 00:05:40,520 --> 00:05:42,640 Forget that. I don't know why I said it. 90 00:05:43,200 --> 00:05:46,080 -Well, no... 91 00:05:46,160 --> 00:05:50,400 -Let's just forget that. -Yeah, let's forget that. 92 00:05:50,480 --> 00:05:52,480 -It's not that. 93 00:05:52,560 --> 00:05:54,840 Well, I've lost Winston. 94 00:05:55,440 --> 00:05:58,480 No. What do you mean, lost him? 95 00:05:58,560 --> 00:06:01,920 I think I gave him to one of those kids. And so, I forgot. 96 00:06:02,000 --> 00:06:04,120 I was thinking about getting the bags, 97 00:06:04,200 --> 00:06:09,120 and you were making me carry all the bags like I'm your personal butler. 98 00:06:09,200 --> 00:06:12,240 But I've spoken to Puppet, and he's going to look for him. 99 00:06:12,320 --> 00:06:17,440 Just imagine if it was a real child. If it was your own child, 100 00:06:17,520 --> 00:06:20,400 would you possibly leave him on a bamboo train? 101 00:06:23,560 --> 00:06:26,480 Did you really think I was going to tell you I'm gay? 102 00:06:26,560 --> 00:06:28,760 Let's just forget about it. 103 00:06:28,840 --> 00:06:32,160 It's not quite that simple, 'cause you said it, so... 104 00:06:32,240 --> 00:06:35,320 Some people, when they see your act, you're quite... 105 00:06:35,400 --> 00:06:37,240 You are quite gay, aren't you? 106 00:06:37,920 --> 00:06:41,280 When you walk around the stage, you go a bit, sort of, 107 00:06:41,360 --> 00:06:43,400 what I would call "how's your father?" 108 00:06:43,480 --> 00:06:45,800 Right. So shall we head off into Battambang? 109 00:06:45,880 --> 00:06:48,280 See a bit of the town? Try and find a restaurant? 110 00:06:48,360 --> 00:06:51,960 I'm not really up for it at the moment. I'm a bit drained. 111 00:06:52,040 --> 00:06:55,200 I'll go out and find somewhere, and we can meet there for dinner. 112 00:06:55,280 --> 00:06:58,000 Yeah, okay. No, that's fine. I'm up for dinner. 113 00:06:58,080 --> 00:07:00,840 -I'll give you a text. -Fine. Okay. 114 00:07:00,920 --> 00:07:02,120 I'll see you later. 115 00:07:03,600 --> 00:07:07,080 Leaving my father to rest and Puppet to track down Winston, 116 00:07:07,160 --> 00:07:08,960 I'm off in search of food. 117 00:07:13,120 --> 00:07:15,280 And my friendly tuk-tuk driver, Tra Tra, 118 00:07:15,360 --> 00:07:18,160 has promised to take me off the tourist trail. 119 00:07:19,680 --> 00:07:21,360 If I know anything about food, 120 00:07:21,440 --> 00:07:24,680 it's the importance of eating fresh and eating local. 121 00:07:25,320 --> 00:07:29,400 Although I'm not too sure how sound that advice will be around here. 122 00:07:30,640 --> 00:07:35,320 Okay, Jack, this is the local market we call Boeung Chhouk market. 123 00:07:35,400 --> 00:07:36,400 It's the local one. 124 00:07:37,120 --> 00:07:41,280 All my friends and my family, even me, come to shop over here. 125 00:07:41,920 --> 00:07:44,280 I wouldn't wanna walk down here on a hangover. 126 00:07:44,360 --> 00:07:46,600 Yeah. Oh, my God. 127 00:07:46,680 --> 00:07:49,160 -Okay, cool. -I get quite squeamish 128 00:07:49,240 --> 00:07:53,920 on the fishmonger's counter in Waitrose, and they're behind glass. 129 00:07:54,760 --> 00:07:57,560 Seeing it actually writhing around... Look at that! 130 00:07:57,640 --> 00:07:59,240 -That's still alive. -Whack it! 131 00:07:59,320 --> 00:08:01,080 -Give it a whack. 132 00:08:02,160 --> 00:08:04,080 -Okay. Tra Tra. What's that? 133 00:08:07,000 --> 00:08:09,960 -It's the water beetle. Look. -Thank you. 134 00:08:10,040 --> 00:08:11,920 No. No, Tra Tra! 135 00:08:12,000 --> 00:08:13,600 Would you eat it? 136 00:08:13,680 --> 00:08:17,920 Uh, I think I would probably not eat a water beetle. 137 00:08:19,600 --> 00:08:21,640 -Frogs. Very French. -Yes, that's a frog. 138 00:08:21,720 --> 00:08:22,760 Do you like it? 139 00:08:24,280 --> 00:08:26,680 This is more than the leg. Oh, my God. That one's moving, 140 00:08:26,760 --> 00:08:28,920 -and it hasn't got a head. It's still alive. 141 00:08:29,560 --> 00:08:30,920 That's the rat. 142 00:08:31,000 --> 00:08:33,760 That's rat? Yes, that is the rat. 143 00:08:33,840 --> 00:08:36,320 -Yeah. 144 00:08:36,400 --> 00:08:40,280 We eat a lot of things, because Cambodia is a very poor country 145 00:08:40,360 --> 00:08:43,840 and we learn to eat anything. We learn to eat anything. 146 00:08:49,520 --> 00:08:51,880 I'm going to show you one thing. It's amazing. 147 00:08:51,960 --> 00:08:55,280 -If that's alive, I'm fucking off. -Wait to see it! 148 00:08:55,360 --> 00:08:58,560 -No, Tra Tra. 149 00:08:59,240 --> 00:09:00,800 I'm not great with snakes. 150 00:09:00,880 --> 00:09:02,600 Jack, come here. Look. -I don't like snakes. 151 00:09:02,680 --> 00:09:05,840 This is cobra. All the men in Cambodia like it. 152 00:09:05,920 --> 00:09:08,640 -Yeah, cobra is the most delicious one. 153 00:09:08,720 --> 00:09:11,200 -All the men like it... Madam! 154 00:09:14,040 --> 00:09:15,240 That was not funny. 155 00:09:43,960 --> 00:09:48,680 Frankly, I'm rapidly losing faith in ever finding somewhere for dinner with Dad. 156 00:09:48,760 --> 00:09:52,400 However, Tra Tra is adamant he knows just the place. 157 00:09:28,040 --> 00:09:31,720 To be honest, Tra Tra, I can't see anything that I wanna eat. 158 00:09:31,800 --> 00:09:33,600 Even your bananas look a little bit moody. 159 00:09:33,680 --> 00:09:37,720 I know one restaurant. It's a local restaurant. It's amazing. 160 00:09:37,800 --> 00:09:40,640 No, Madam! Stop whipping me with your snake! 161 00:09:40,720 --> 00:09:43,880 Okay, let's go to the restaurant. Where is it 162 00:09:43,960 --> 00:09:48,680 Frankly, I'm rapidly losing faith in ever finding somewhere for dinner with Dad. 163 00:09:48,760 --> 00:09:52,400 However, Tra Tra is adamant he knows just the place. 164 00:09:52,480 --> 00:09:55,840 Hey, Patrick, Patrick. Sok sabay. 165 00:09:55,920 --> 00:09:59,000 Hello, how are you? -Patrice. Welcome to my place, 166 00:09:59,080 --> 00:10:00,320 -Madison Pub. Thank you. 167 00:10:00,400 --> 00:10:01,760 At last, some good fortune. 168 00:10:01,840 --> 00:10:05,040 It turns out that Patrice trained in France as a chef 169 00:10:05,120 --> 00:10:07,640 and is willing to prepare a feast fit for a king. 170 00:10:07,720 --> 00:10:09,080 Sounds too good to be true. 171 00:10:09,160 --> 00:10:10,440 -Bonjour. -Bonjour. 172 00:10:10,520 --> 00:10:12,080 Thank you for letting me into your kitchen. 173 00:10:12,160 --> 00:10:16,080 -Today, we will start with a... 174 00:10:16,880 --> 00:10:19,880 something, appetizer, for snack on snake. 175 00:10:19,960 --> 00:10:23,360 -Yes, I love cooking French 176 00:10:23,440 --> 00:10:25,320 -with ingredients of Cambodia. -Okay. 177 00:10:25,400 --> 00:10:26,920 Oh, God. 178 00:10:27,000 --> 00:10:28,840 What does snake taste like? 179 00:10:28,920 --> 00:10:32,280 Texture is a style of the chicken, you know? 180 00:10:32,360 --> 00:10:34,280 Everyone says everything tastes like chicken. 181 00:10:35,880 --> 00:10:38,520 This is going to be a tricky watch for a vegetarian. 182 00:10:38,600 --> 00:10:40,600 Yeah, but it's all natural. 183 00:10:41,920 --> 00:10:42,840 Little batter? 184 00:10:46,560 --> 00:10:47,880 Oh. 185 00:10:47,960 --> 00:10:49,960 First dish? First dish. 186 00:10:50,040 --> 00:10:52,320 -Snake calamari. 187 00:10:57,520 --> 00:10:59,320 That's good. It's very good. 188 00:11:00,000 --> 00:11:04,120 A surprise. -It's definitely a first. 189 00:11:05,760 --> 00:11:08,520 I like that. Very good. 190 00:11:14,280 --> 00:11:17,000 That's French for "Bring me the skunk anus." 191 00:11:17,080 --> 00:11:20,160 So, Patrice, what's the next dish? 192 00:11:20,760 --> 00:11:22,240 Duck salad. I love duck. 193 00:11:22,320 --> 00:11:23,880 Something weird is coming. 194 00:11:25,560 --> 00:11:28,560 -Oh, Patrice, no. That egg is off. -It's the yellow. 195 00:11:34,680 --> 00:11:37,120 Is it a fetus? It's a fetus, yes. 196 00:11:38,160 --> 00:11:43,200 I mean, Patrice, the phrase "polishing a turd" springs to mind here. 197 00:11:43,280 --> 00:11:44,280 Delicious. 198 00:11:44,840 --> 00:11:47,160 There we are. A duck fetus salad. 199 00:11:47,240 --> 00:11:48,240 Tra Tra... 200 00:11:49,320 --> 00:11:50,400 duck fetus. 201 00:11:51,480 --> 00:11:52,480 -Mmm. 202 00:11:53,400 --> 00:11:55,360 -Lovely jubbly. -Lovely jubbly. 203 00:11:55,440 --> 00:11:58,960 -Yeah, it's amazing. -Tra Tra, take it. It's yours. 204 00:11:59,040 --> 00:12:00,480 Okay. Thank you so much. Mmm. 205 00:12:01,920 --> 00:12:03,200 Okay. 206 00:12:03,280 --> 00:12:04,720 Now the main course. 207 00:12:04,800 --> 00:12:08,800 A simple stir-fry with one secret ingredient. 208 00:12:10,200 --> 00:12:11,160 Rat. 209 00:12:11,240 --> 00:12:14,760 It's got a tooth! It's got a tooth in its face. 210 00:12:16,360 --> 00:12:18,040 I don't know if I can eat that. 211 00:12:19,440 --> 00:12:20,520 Take for you the best. 212 00:12:20,600 --> 00:12:22,200 Let's leave the tail. 213 00:12:22,840 --> 00:12:24,600 Is there a wine pairing with this? 214 00:12:25,520 --> 00:12:26,640 Fucking hell. 215 00:12:35,880 --> 00:12:36,880 Do you like it? 216 00:12:40,920 --> 00:12:42,200 It's quite nice. 217 00:12:45,840 --> 00:12:48,000 This is what I didn't want, Patrice! 218 00:12:52,000 --> 00:12:54,560 I don't even know what part of its anatomy that is. 219 00:12:55,360 --> 00:12:57,640 Arm -Arm. 220 00:12:57,720 --> 00:13:00,040 Rat's arse. I'm eating a rat's arse. -I'm eating a rat's arse. You're brave. 221 00:13:03,200 --> 00:13:04,360 And it's really good. 222 00:13:05,120 --> 00:13:06,440 Patrice... 223 00:13:06,520 --> 00:13:08,720 He's a pretty experimental chef. 224 00:13:08,800 --> 00:13:10,120 And I've got Dad coming down. 225 00:13:10,200 --> 00:13:12,240 I'm not sure whether he's gonna go with any of that. 226 00:13:15,120 --> 00:13:17,360 I'm slightly in shell shock, to be honest. 227 00:13:17,440 --> 00:13:21,200 Now, you may recall my father didn't like street food in Thailand. 228 00:13:21,280 --> 00:13:24,400 So I think that when it comes to Cambodian cuisine, 229 00:13:24,480 --> 00:13:27,120 discretion will be the better part of valor. 230 00:13:27,200 --> 00:13:28,800 Have you decided what you're going to have? 231 00:13:29,160 --> 00:13:30,520 Um... 232 00:13:30,600 --> 00:13:32,800 I think I'll start with the calamari. 233 00:13:32,880 --> 00:13:34,200 Wonderful choice. 234 00:13:35,040 --> 00:13:37,320 Could I push you in the direction of the duck salad? 235 00:13:38,320 --> 00:13:39,600 I've heard good things. 236 00:13:39,680 --> 00:13:40,880 Yeah, okay. 237 00:13:40,960 --> 00:13:44,280 -It's like the one they do at The Ivy. -Okay, I'll have that. 238 00:13:46,720 --> 00:13:48,480 Why are you smirking? 239 00:13:49,880 --> 00:13:54,600 I'm happy to be here. With you. Dining out. 240 00:13:55,200 --> 00:13:57,680 Some things are better left unsaid. 241 00:13:57,760 --> 00:14:00,360 Hey. Calamari. 242 00:14:01,200 --> 00:14:03,320 Lovely. Thank you, Patrice. 243 00:14:06,360 --> 00:14:09,080 And the moment of truth. 244 00:14:12,840 --> 00:14:14,600 It's actually rather nice, this. 245 00:14:16,240 --> 00:14:17,880 I think this is delicious. 246 00:14:18,600 --> 00:14:20,600 Well, who'd have thought it? 247 00:14:22,120 --> 00:14:23,240 Yummy. 248 00:14:28,680 --> 00:14:30,520 After a tough first day, 249 00:14:30,600 --> 00:14:34,160 it seems a good night's sleep and some Cambodian home cooking 250 00:14:34,240 --> 00:14:35,560 has done the trick, 251 00:14:35,640 --> 00:14:40,400 as this morning, my dad is up early and raring to go out and explore. 252 00:14:41,200 --> 00:14:45,240 And for once, there is a trip that we both want to take. 253 00:14:45,320 --> 00:14:49,080 One OAP, one child. Two tickets. Yeah? 254 00:14:49,160 --> 00:14:50,160 Child ticket. 255 00:14:50,240 --> 00:14:55,320 The excursion has been arranged by Nick, a travel writer who was born in Watford 256 00:14:55,400 --> 00:14:57,920 but has lived in Cambodia for the last 16 years. 257 00:14:58,000 --> 00:14:59,560 Smiling. 258 00:14:59,640 --> 00:15:02,880 Yeah. Okay. All good. Thank you. 259 00:15:02,960 --> 00:15:04,480 Nick, I have to be brutally honest 260 00:15:04,560 --> 00:15:08,440 and say this is certainly not what I expected in a temple. 261 00:15:08,520 --> 00:15:10,720 There seems to be nothing religious here. 262 00:15:10,800 --> 00:15:12,800 You'll be pleased to know it's only the checkpoint. 263 00:15:12,880 --> 00:15:14,040 There is a temple to come. 264 00:15:14,120 --> 00:15:16,520 Angkor Wat's the biggest tourist attraction in Cambodia. 265 00:15:16,600 --> 00:15:20,400 They get millions of visitors a year. Hence, all these ticket windows. 266 00:15:20,480 --> 00:15:21,800 It's the cash cow of Cambodia. 267 00:15:22,560 --> 00:15:24,240 Nick is an Angkor expert 268 00:15:24,320 --> 00:15:27,640 who is here specifically to make sure we behave ourselves. 269 00:15:28,280 --> 00:15:30,960 You seem to have got into my photo. 270 00:15:31,040 --> 00:15:32,800 It's meant to be a photo of me, 271 00:15:32,880 --> 00:15:35,800 -and he's gurning behind me. -Photobombing you. 272 00:15:35,880 --> 00:15:39,240 And so far he's not doing too well. 273 00:15:39,320 --> 00:15:41,520 Don't touch any of the carvings. 274 00:15:41,600 --> 00:15:42,760 I wouldn't do that. 275 00:15:42,840 --> 00:15:45,320 Moving or taking archaeological artifacts. 276 00:15:45,400 --> 00:15:47,360 They know what us Brits are like. 277 00:15:47,440 --> 00:15:49,520 -No stealing artifacts. -Graffiti, too. 278 00:15:49,600 --> 00:15:51,480 Graffiti is prohibited. Good to know. 279 00:15:51,560 --> 00:15:56,560 Any act of exposing sexual organs 280 00:15:56,640 --> 00:16:02,160 and nudity in public area is a crime punishable by law. 281 00:16:02,240 --> 00:16:05,080 I've never been anywhere in the world, and I've been to-- 282 00:16:05,160 --> 00:16:06,760 That says, "Don't get your knob out." 283 00:16:06,840 --> 00:16:10,360 "Don't get your knob out. It's a crime punishable by law." With our passes and sexual organs safely in our trousers, 284 00:16:14,680 --> 00:16:17,200 we are finally permitted through the gates of Angkor. 285 00:16:19,880 --> 00:16:21,720 And it doesn't disappoint. 286 00:16:41,240 --> 00:16:43,880 Welcome to the world's largest religious building. 287 00:16:43,960 --> 00:16:44,960 Gosh. 288 00:16:45,040 --> 00:16:47,280 When I say Angkor, you say... 289 00:16:48,360 --> 00:16:49,360 What? 290 00:16:50,920 --> 00:16:52,240 Don't be ridiculous. 291 00:16:52,880 --> 00:16:55,320 -Look at that. That is impressive. -It is. 292 00:16:55,400 --> 00:16:59,200 I can see why they warn people not to take out their sexual organs. 293 00:16:59,280 --> 00:17:01,720 And it is very, very impressive. 294 00:17:02,560 --> 00:17:05,640 The name actually means "the temple that is a city," 295 00:17:05,720 --> 00:17:08,200 and it's just on an immense scale. 296 00:17:08,800 --> 00:17:12,839 It features on the Cambodian flag. It's a national symbol of pride. 297 00:17:12,920 --> 00:17:15,400 It's on the national beer, the national television station. 298 00:17:15,480 --> 00:17:18,040 Angkor is ubiquitous in Cambodia. 299 00:17:18,119 --> 00:17:20,640 And butter, too. There's an Angkor butter, isn't there? 300 00:17:20,720 --> 00:17:24,400 -That's different. It's not Angkor butter. Yes, it is. 301 00:17:25,200 --> 00:17:27,440 You thought Anchor butter was named after Angkor Wat? 302 00:17:27,520 --> 00:17:29,920 He said about these brands... 303 00:17:30,000 --> 00:17:31,520 Yeah. Beer and stuff. 304 00:17:31,600 --> 00:17:35,760 After this, we're going to see the Lurpak temple... 305 00:17:35,840 --> 00:17:37,680 Flora temple. We've got them all. Yeah. 306 00:17:37,760 --> 00:17:40,200 I Can't Believe It's Not a Temple. 307 00:17:41,200 --> 00:17:44,720 Despite the thousands of tourists swarming the temple, 308 00:17:44,800 --> 00:17:47,600 once you get inside the heart of Angkor Wat, 309 00:17:47,680 --> 00:17:51,800 it is surprisingly and eerily peaceful. 310 00:17:54,160 --> 00:17:57,800 This is known as Preah Poan, or the Gallery of 1,000 Buddhas. 311 00:17:57,880 --> 00:17:59,800 It really is the sacred heart of Angkor Wat. 312 00:17:59,880 --> 00:18:03,360 If you look around, you'll see the level of detail and carving on every spot 313 00:18:03,440 --> 00:18:04,920 of every wall. It's incredible. 314 00:18:05,000 --> 00:18:06,880 They're quite saucy, those images. 315 00:18:06,960 --> 00:18:08,360 Yeah. Yes, they are. 316 00:18:08,440 --> 00:18:11,600 They're heavenly maidens, or apsaras, so they've been rubbed a lot. 317 00:18:11,680 --> 00:18:15,600 Looks like someone got carried away over that one in the corner. 318 00:18:19,440 --> 00:18:21,640 If you need to improve your karmic balance, 319 00:18:21,720 --> 00:18:23,640 go visit the monk. He'll give you a blessing. 320 00:18:23,720 --> 00:18:26,280 That will redress all the wrongs you may have done. 321 00:18:26,360 --> 00:18:29,040 I need a few blessings, I think. You certainly do. 322 00:18:30,880 --> 00:18:35,520 Everyone needs happiness, so I bless them to get happiness. 323 00:18:35,600 --> 00:18:38,840 -We'd like some happiness. -Yeah, yeah. Happiness. 324 00:18:39,920 --> 00:18:40,960 Thank you. 325 00:18:53,480 --> 00:18:54,960 God bless you. 326 00:18:55,640 --> 00:18:57,200 -Thank you very much. Thank you. 327 00:18:57,280 --> 00:18:59,120 Excuse me. Where are you from? 328 00:18:59,200 --> 00:19:01,480 -We're from London. 329 00:19:01,560 --> 00:19:02,800 -London. Yes. 330 00:19:02,880 --> 00:19:05,760 -We are father and son. 331 00:19:05,840 --> 00:19:07,400 Father and son, yes, yes. 332 00:19:07,480 --> 00:19:10,600 We're traveling round Southeast Asia on a gap year. 333 00:19:10,680 --> 00:19:12,000 -Yes. -That's nice. 334 00:19:12,080 --> 00:19:14,760 -Welcome to Angkor Wat. Thank you very much. 335 00:19:14,840 --> 00:19:17,360 We can now make a prayer because you've blessed us? 336 00:19:17,440 --> 00:19:18,440 Yes. 337 00:19:18,520 --> 00:19:21,960 -I pray for good fortune in the future. -Yes. 338 00:19:22,040 --> 00:19:24,880 My father prays he can get up from this kneeling position. 339 00:19:24,960 --> 00:19:28,320 -Yeah. Yes, yes. Thank you. 340 00:19:28,400 --> 00:19:29,600 Thank you very much. 341 00:19:30,480 --> 00:19:33,360 While our friend Mung here makes it look easy, 342 00:19:33,440 --> 00:19:36,760 you may be surprised to know that being a monk takes some training. 343 00:19:37,800 --> 00:19:40,400 Welcome to monk school. 344 00:19:43,320 --> 00:19:47,120 Here, 300 pupils study English, maths 345 00:19:47,200 --> 00:19:49,920 and, of course, the teachings of the Buddha. 346 00:19:50,560 --> 00:19:54,960 However, this afternoon, they're about to get a lesson they may never forget, 347 00:19:55,640 --> 00:19:58,000 as I've been asked to take a class myself. 348 00:19:59,760 --> 00:20:02,400 What would you like to teach all the monks? 349 00:20:02,480 --> 00:20:04,200 -English. 350 00:20:04,280 --> 00:20:05,760 -Great! -Yeah. Yeah, I'd love to. 351 00:20:05,840 --> 00:20:07,880 All the monks love English. 352 00:20:07,960 --> 00:20:10,200 I was a teacher back home in England. 353 00:20:10,280 --> 00:20:13,200 I taught for four years in a school called Abbey Grove, 354 00:20:13,280 --> 00:20:16,480 -so I've had some teaching experience. -Yes. 355 00:20:16,560 --> 00:20:18,800 -He wasn't a teacher at all. -I was. 356 00:20:18,880 --> 00:20:22,320 He was in a sitcom playing a teacher. That's a very different thing. 357 00:20:22,400 --> 00:20:24,720 Fictional teaching is also teaching, just so you know. 358 00:20:25,600 --> 00:20:28,600 Do you have a mortar board and a gown? 359 00:20:28,680 --> 00:20:32,240 When it comes to getting into character, I do like to dress the part. 360 00:20:33,120 --> 00:20:35,440 But this wasn't quite what I had in mind. 361 00:20:35,520 --> 00:20:38,840 -Yeah, it's great. I love it. 362 00:20:38,920 --> 00:20:40,200 Okay. It's nice. 363 00:20:40,280 --> 00:20:42,440 It reminds me of a toga party. 364 00:20:43,400 --> 00:20:46,280 -Toga! Toga! Toga! -Good. Yeah. 365 00:20:46,360 --> 00:20:49,080 Jack talking about his teaching experience... 366 00:20:49,160 --> 00:20:51,560 I mean, he was in a bloody sitcom, 367 00:20:51,640 --> 00:20:55,280 and not a very good one, either... Bad Education, playing a teacher. 368 00:20:55,360 --> 00:20:58,680 -I feel a lot of gravitas in this. -Yes. 369 00:20:59,800 --> 00:21:02,640 -I'm walking ten feet tall. -Yes. 370 00:21:03,360 --> 00:21:05,120 I mean, just seeing Jack, 371 00:21:05,200 --> 00:21:10,280 that boy is developing a very, very severe messiah complex. 372 00:21:10,360 --> 00:21:12,800 God knows what's going on. 373 00:21:14,200 --> 00:21:16,840 Is it just me, or was that dog lame a minute ago? 374 00:21:19,360 --> 00:21:20,600 Walking fine now. 375 00:21:23,560 --> 00:21:25,120 -On your way. Sorry. 376 00:21:27,520 --> 00:21:28,560 Funny, was it? 377 00:21:30,440 --> 00:21:33,520 I think I might have slightly oversold my skill set. 378 00:21:33,600 --> 00:21:37,680 I'm about to teach a class of 30 devout Buddhist monks. 379 00:21:39,360 --> 00:21:41,320 What do I teach them? 380 00:21:41,400 --> 00:21:44,160 I've never taught an actual class in my life. 381 00:21:44,240 --> 00:21:46,720 -Sok sabay. Sok sabay. 382 00:21:46,800 --> 00:21:47,920 Good morning, children. 383 00:21:48,480 --> 00:21:50,880 They're not children. They're young men. 384 00:21:51,000 --> 00:21:52,560 Okay. Sorry. It's what you... 385 00:21:52,640 --> 00:21:55,000 It's normally what you say as a teacher. 386 00:21:55,080 --> 00:21:56,280 Good morning, monks. 387 00:21:56,800 --> 00:22:00,680 I am your teacher for today, Mr. Whitehall. 388 00:22:00,760 --> 00:22:02,720 I'm going to teach you some words 389 00:22:02,800 --> 00:22:07,040 that I don't think you're gonna find in any of your English textbooks. 390 00:22:07,920 --> 00:22:13,480 But words that the young people, the yout', are using back in the UK. 391 00:22:14,240 --> 00:22:20,240 So first up, we are going to be looking at a word that is used a lot in English. 392 00:22:20,320 --> 00:22:25,280 -"Banter." Repeat after me. Banter. Banter. 393 00:22:25,360 --> 00:22:31,200 Say you are down the boozer with a couple of your mates, sinking a few jars... 394 00:22:31,280 --> 00:22:35,520 They're not going to be down at the boozer, sinking jars. 395 00:22:35,600 --> 00:22:39,680 They're not allowed to drink. So that is the most ludicrous analogy. 396 00:22:39,760 --> 00:22:42,040 Okay. -So try and be sensible. 397 00:23:13,880 --> 00:23:15,600 And give me the example. 398 00:23:15,680 --> 00:23:16,960 Thank you. Good question. 399 00:23:17,040 --> 00:23:22,560 An old git is an old man, a sad man, an angry man, a grumpy man. 400 00:23:22,640 --> 00:23:24,880 Class, if we look to this gentleman over here 401 00:23:24,960 --> 00:23:28,400 and we all say together, "Old git." 402 00:23:28,480 --> 00:23:30,800 Old git. Wonderful. 403 00:23:05,240 --> 00:23:08,080 -"Old git." Old git. 404 00:23:08,160 --> 00:23:13,800 I have one question about "old git." So, what is the meaning of "old git"? 405 00:23:13,880 --> 00:23:15,600 And give me the example. 406 00:23:15,680 --> 00:23:16,960 Thank you. Good question. 407 00:23:17,040 --> 00:23:22,560 An old git is an old man, a sad man, an angry man, a grumpy man. 408 00:23:22,640 --> 00:23:24,880 Class, if we look to this gentleman over here 409 00:23:24,960 --> 00:23:28,400 and we all say together, "Old git." 410 00:23:28,480 --> 00:23:30,800 Old git. Wonderful. 411 00:23:30,880 --> 00:23:35,560 Very funny, Jack. I could see that coming a mile off. 412 00:23:36,120 --> 00:23:39,200 Cockney rhyming slang. First up, "boat race." 413 00:23:39,280 --> 00:23:40,200 Boat race. 414 00:23:40,280 --> 00:23:42,200 -Boat race. That's your face. Boat race. 415 00:23:42,280 --> 00:23:45,640 He likes that, yeah. Nice boat race. You've got a cheeky boat race, mate. 416 00:23:45,720 --> 00:23:49,920 Next up, "Pete Tong." It's all gone Pete Tong, wrong. 417 00:23:50,000 --> 00:23:53,440 "Barney." Barney Rubble, trouble. 418 00:23:54,040 --> 00:23:56,600 -"Trouble and strife." Trouble and strife. 419 00:23:56,680 --> 00:23:58,520 What could that be? Trouble and strife. 420 00:23:58,600 --> 00:24:00,160 Trouble and strife. 421 00:24:00,840 --> 00:24:03,960 Trouble and strife, wife. 422 00:24:27,520 --> 00:24:29,160 I just got overexcited. 423 00:24:31,960 --> 00:24:33,200 Tommy Tank. 424 00:24:34,440 --> 00:24:38,960 Is there a Buddhist hell? I think I may soon find out. 425 00:24:40,240 --> 00:24:42,960 I think I've got some quite bad karma coming my way. 426 00:24:43,080 --> 00:24:44,600 That's not a good sign. 427 00:24:31,960 --> 00:24:33,200 Tommy Tank. 428 00:24:34,440 --> 00:24:38,960 Is there a Buddhist hell? I think I may soon find out. 429 00:24:40,240 --> 00:24:42,960 I think I've got some quite bad karma coming my way. 430 00:24:43,080 --> 00:24:44,600 That's not a good sign. 431 00:24:51,720 --> 00:24:52,840 I'm sorry. 432 00:24:54,040 --> 00:24:56,760 I'm not sure how much the monks learned this afternoon, 433 00:24:56,840 --> 00:25:01,440 but I'm getting to understand that despite my unnerving first impressions, 434 00:25:01,520 --> 00:25:05,360 beneath the surface, Cambodians are a warm and friendly bunch. 435 00:25:06,480 --> 00:25:10,200 But to really understand them, you need to know their history, 436 00:25:10,880 --> 00:25:15,880 and my trusty friend Tra Tra believes there is one place we really must see. 437 00:25:17,880 --> 00:25:23,040 Twelve kilometers outside of Battambang, rising out of the flat plains, 438 00:25:23,120 --> 00:25:25,760 is the mountain Phnom Sampeau. 439 00:25:26,400 --> 00:25:30,520 And looking across the valley is its historic pagoda, 440 00:25:30,600 --> 00:25:32,280 which holds a dark past. 441 00:25:35,600 --> 00:25:39,040 This temple, it's very famous in Battambang province. 442 00:25:39,120 --> 00:25:43,080 During Buddhist New Year, a lot of Buddhist people come to pray. 443 00:25:43,160 --> 00:25:47,040 And when they are praying, incense smoke goes round the temple. 444 00:25:47,120 --> 00:25:50,600 The temple looks like it's floating in the sky. 445 00:25:50,680 --> 00:25:52,440 It looks like paradise. 446 00:25:52,520 --> 00:25:56,320 But there is a different story about this temple. 447 00:25:56,400 --> 00:26:01,640 During Khmer Rouge, about 1975, it became a prison. 448 00:26:01,720 --> 00:26:02,880 Yes. 449 00:26:02,960 --> 00:26:06,000 A lot of people have been tortured in this place. 450 00:26:06,080 --> 00:26:09,440 What happened with religion during the Khmer Rouge? 451 00:26:09,520 --> 00:26:13,480 During that time, all the religions must be destroyed. 452 00:26:13,560 --> 00:26:18,160 They turned all the monks, the nuns, the priests to simple people, 453 00:26:18,240 --> 00:26:19,440 or they killed them. 454 00:26:19,520 --> 00:26:21,800 The monks were the intellectuals, weren't they? 455 00:26:21,880 --> 00:26:23,000 Yeah, yeah, yeah. 456 00:26:23,080 --> 00:26:27,240 And they kill people who wear glasses, 457 00:26:27,320 --> 00:26:30,040 people dressed like they would in an office. 458 00:26:30,120 --> 00:26:32,400 You said people who wore glasses? 459 00:26:32,480 --> 00:26:34,240 Yeah, people wearing glasses. 460 00:26:34,320 --> 00:26:36,400 -So that would have been the end of me. Yeah. 461 00:26:36,480 --> 00:26:39,160 They don't want to keep all the smart people. 462 00:26:39,240 --> 00:26:41,240 Why did these people want to do that? 463 00:26:41,320 --> 00:26:44,560 Why did they want to destroy everything good about their country? 464 00:26:44,640 --> 00:26:49,560 Because they wanted no poor, no rich, everyone in the same position. 465 00:26:49,640 --> 00:26:52,320 -What, like a sort of communist... Yes. 466 00:26:52,400 --> 00:26:56,240 If people don't listen to them, they must be killed. 467 00:26:56,320 --> 00:26:57,880 They killed their own people. 468 00:27:01,680 --> 00:27:05,800 Forty years ago, the Khmer Rouge committed genocide 469 00:27:05,880 --> 00:27:08,280 on an almost unimaginable scale. 470 00:27:09,760 --> 00:27:13,760 It's estimated that over two million Cambodians were killed. 471 00:27:13,840 --> 00:27:16,240 A third of the entire population. 472 00:27:18,000 --> 00:27:22,360 And behind the temple, Tra Tra wants to show us a powerful reminder 473 00:27:22,440 --> 00:27:24,800 of the brutality of that regime. 474 00:27:25,360 --> 00:27:27,960 Today, this cave is a sacred shrine. 475 00:27:57,880 --> 00:28:02,920 That hole is about 20 meters high, so no one alive in that time. 476 00:28:03,000 --> 00:28:04,280 Even the children. 477 00:28:04,360 --> 00:28:08,720 When they want to kill the parents, they also kill the children, 478 00:27:40,680 --> 00:27:43,320 Ten thousand people got killed in this cave. 479 00:27:43,920 --> 00:27:48,360 They took all of them up to the top of the cave there. 480 00:27:48,440 --> 00:27:52,440 They just blindfolded people and forced them to kneel down 481 00:27:52,520 --> 00:27:55,160 and hit them by the neck. Bang. 482 00:27:55,240 --> 00:27:57,800 And they pushed them down into the cave here. 483 00:27:57,880 --> 00:28:02,920 That hole is about 20 meters high, so no one alive in that time. 484 00:28:03,000 --> 00:28:04,280 Even the children. 485 00:28:04,360 --> 00:28:08,720 When they want to kill the parents, they also kill the children, 486 00:28:08,800 --> 00:28:14,000 because when they want to cut the grass, they want to take off the root, too. 487 00:28:14,080 --> 00:28:16,640 And these were your own people doing this. 488 00:28:16,720 --> 00:28:21,320 Your own people were throwing the children. That's the terrible thing. 489 00:28:21,400 --> 00:28:24,320 Are there lots of other mass graves all over Cambodia like this? 490 00:28:24,400 --> 00:28:28,840 Yeah. There are more than 300 killing fields and killing caves. 491 00:28:35,920 --> 00:28:39,000 You were alive when it happened? When it was going on? 492 00:28:39,080 --> 00:28:43,920 Yeah. I mean, I was in my early 30s. 493 00:28:44,560 --> 00:28:46,680 'Cause it was happening so far away. 494 00:28:46,760 --> 00:28:49,360 It was the other side of the world. It was... 495 00:29:23,200 --> 00:29:27,040 has shown how resourceful and resilient Cambodians are. 496 00:29:27,120 --> 00:29:28,080 Thank you. 497 00:29:28,640 --> 00:29:31,560 And, as if to prove it, just over the ridge, 498 00:29:31,640 --> 00:29:35,720 crowds are gathering expectantly at another entrance to the caves. 499 00:29:04,720 --> 00:29:05,960 It's so eerie. 500 00:29:08,000 --> 00:29:09,920 These poor people. 501 00:29:18,040 --> 00:29:23,120 Despite such recent tragedy, everything we've seen so far in Cambodia 502 00:29:23,200 --> 00:29:27,040 has shown how resourceful and resilient Cambodians are. 503 00:29:27,120 --> 00:29:28,080 Thank you. 504 00:29:28,640 --> 00:29:31,560 And, as if to prove it, just over the ridge, 505 00:29:31,640 --> 00:29:35,720 crowds are gathering expectantly at another entrance to the caves. 506 00:29:36,360 --> 00:29:37,960 Armed with beers and snacks, 507 00:29:38,040 --> 00:29:43,600 everyone is here to witness a spectacle that takes place every night at 6:30 p.m. 508 00:29:43,680 --> 00:29:44,800 like clockwork. 509 00:29:44,880 --> 00:29:46,400 Oh. Oh. 510 00:29:46,480 --> 00:29:48,720 -That was something. There's something happening. 511 00:29:48,800 --> 00:29:50,000 Oh, look. Yes. 512 00:29:50,080 --> 00:29:51,560 Wow. 513 00:29:51,640 --> 00:29:54,640 Look at that. It's the bat show. 514 00:29:55,840 --> 00:29:57,160 Unbelievable. 515 00:30:01,440 --> 00:30:03,520 There's so many of them. 516 00:30:05,800 --> 00:30:09,840 Don't you think that's great, though? Seeing that cave, its horrific past. 517 00:30:09,920 --> 00:30:11,960 It's been used as an open grave, 518 00:30:12,040 --> 00:30:14,360 and now they've turned it into something good. 519 00:30:15,040 --> 00:30:17,560 They've turned it into this amazing show, 520 00:30:17,640 --> 00:30:20,960 and there's people here having drinks, enjoying themselves. 521 00:30:38,200 --> 00:30:42,400 It is amazing, but I kind of feel like now it's probably time to wrap it up. 522 00:30:42,480 --> 00:30:44,200 I know when I've been on stage for too long. 523 00:30:44,280 --> 00:30:46,880 You get a sense an audience are looking at their watches. 524 00:30:46,960 --> 00:30:48,920 I've never noticed you do that, actually. 525 00:30:49,000 --> 00:30:51,000 No. I've noticed the audience, 526 00:30:51,080 --> 00:30:54,000 -but I've never noticed you realizing. Right. No, well... 527 00:30:54,080 --> 00:30:57,160 Well, I'm happy to say that after a tense few days, 528 00:30:57,240 --> 00:31:01,160 for the first time in Cambodia, we're both beginning to relax. 529 00:31:02,280 --> 00:31:03,920 Daddy, fuck off! 530 00:31:04,000 --> 00:31:05,880 He's a nightmare. 531 00:31:05,960 --> 00:31:08,000 -You bastard, come here! -Daddy!